Milwaukee. It's amazing what a difference 90 miles can make in terms of urban life. We spent 24 hours recently in Milwaukee as part of our Holiday festivities (attending Mannheim Steamroller at the Bradley Center in the middle of downtown instead of at the Parking Lot-infested All-State Arena was the impetus). With relatives nearby, we rarely actually get into the city, so we thought we would make a day of it. What we found far exceeded our expectations, and there is certainly more than a day's worth of activities. Here's what we found:

• Mitchell Park Conservatory located just west of downtown, and south of Rt. 94. Three indoor arboretum domes obviously built in the 60's, each with a different climate zone (My uncle affectionately refers to these as the "three boobs"; one look and you'll see why). Two of the domes are permanent climate - one arid, and one tropical (with birds). Wonderful to look at and be in, especially on the cold days of winter. The third dome is an exhibit dome. Being December, the dome was festively designed for Christmas. While festive, it was not very attractive. No gay designer was consulted on this tree, I hope! The poinsettias were plentiful, but the tree was pretty ghastly. Regardless, this is a great way to spend an hour or two.
• Milwaukee Art Museum The newest attraction of the downtown area, and well worth a special trip. If you drive, park at the lot across the street from the museum and walk across the walkway (the museum also has its own parking structure). As you approach the building, you get a great sense of the magnitude of this ship-looking structure that was named by Time Magazine as the architectural achievement of 2001. Additionally, as you enter the building from this entrance, you feel as if you might be boarding the Starship Enterprise. The new addition is really a huge foyer with some meeting spaces, two gallery rooms (for special exhibits), a theatre, and a gift shop. A long hallway connects to the main museum collection in the original building. What's great about this museum (in addition to its beauty) is that, if you tire quickly in museums (I do), this one is doable in a couple of hours, and the art is accessible. It is also displayed in a historical chronological manner that makes following the evolution of art possible. If you are looking for a reason to go to Milwaukee, look no further than here!
• Third Ward This is an up-and-coming trendy area near the waterfront festival grounds. Like most trendy urban areas that were previously run down, it was first re-inhabited by the gay community. It is now becoming a place of coffee shops, bistros, loft condos, and galleries. Very pleasing to the eyes, as most of the buildings go back to pre-depression times. While it may sound like any other urban trendy areas, remember that this is still Milwaukee - lunch for me was Kielbasa Soup.
• Shopping District Along the river is where about 6 blocks west of the museum is the main theater, shopping and dining district. Here you will find what you can find many places (Fields, Carson/Boston Store, Rock Bottom Brewery) as well as local retail and restaurants (Mader's German Restaurant - the Berghoff's of Milwaukee where JF Kennedy dined in 1959, Water Street Brewery, and a sausage retail shop). All this is surrounded by many theater venues, including the Midwest Express Center and Bradley Center. Shopping, dinner, and a show cannot be much more convenient.
• Brady Street We only drove down this street, located about 2 miles north of downtown, but it is full of shops and coffee shops. On a nice afternoon, it will be one of our aims.
• Milwaukee Lights Festival Held during the Holiday Season. Various parts of the city, including city parks and river walks, are brightly lit and decorated. There are organized tours to hit some of the highlights, but just driving and walking around provides many adequate glimpses for the child in us that still glows at the sight of Holiday lights.
• Where to Stay We stayed at the Astor Hotel, easy distance to any downtown area, walking or driving. It is an older hotel that is also a residence for people. It promotes itself as being "turn-of-the-century" service, and it is trying. The accommodations were comfortable, but not luxurious. Bathrooms have no fans. There was a stain on the carpet. But otherwise, quite nice (we are not big fans of the modern hotel with all the technology, so take note if you are that this place is not for you). Continental breakfast is included and served just off the lobby. There is also a restaurant, a small workout facility, and space for business hookups (computer, faxes, etc.). We paid $69 for the night, but are fairly certain that this was a recession special, with normal rates closer to $90-100. Across the street is another option called County Clare. This inn/pub opened in the late 1990's. The bar is great to look at, with a comfortable sitting area near a fireplace, but is somewhat loud acoustically. We did not see the rooms, but the brochures look great. Additional amenities are available, such as hot-tub in the room. Rates are about $20-30 more than where we stayed. We did, however, have a drink in the bar. The food looked good, and will be on our list for the return visit.

The intangibles of Milwaukee, always hard to capture in word, are worth mentioning. This city is much smaller than Chicago; most of these "areas" adjoin each other and can be easily walked. Also, the buildings are smaller than in the loop or other parts of Chicago, so sunlight makes it to the street and it feels less cavernous. Traffic is also lighter (both foot and auto). For us (we can get easily overwhelmed and exhausted by crowds), this was delightful. The look, feel and diverse offerings of a city without the congestion. Of course, there was much we did not see - the breweries, architectural tours, lakefront cultural festivals and baseball (in the summer), or nightlife. These will be saved for the next time.

Further Afield

For the Chicago-area traveler with neither the time, resources, nor desire for far-away travels, we have discovered many weekend places that are relaxing, restorative, gay-friendly, and within a few hours of Chicago. For people who are looking for parties and high-energy nightlife, these are definitely not for you. But, if you are looking for places to reconnect with yourself, your spouse/companion/lover, and nature, these might fit the bill. In addition, many of the towns nearby have a variety (both in kind and quality) of shopping. We have found that frequently, the fewer diversions, the better for quality R&R. We find it nearly impossible to compare any of the places we have been. Each one has unique qualities and charm that make it unique.

The following are some of our favorite places to get-away to, with some of the local activities nearby that we have enjoyed. By no means is this a complete or objective list, nor does it mean to reflect a recommendation of these places over other places in the area.

Carver's Rock Bed and Breakfast

Located just outside Clinton, WI, a short (and surprisingly easy) drive from much of the Chicago area, this relatively new B & B is gay-owned. On a quiet road surrounded by farms and woods (with easy access to walking trails), this house has three bedrooms. We rented the two-bedroom special with another couple. It was basically a suite with a sitting room and a shared bathroom, as well as two private entrances, so, if one desires, privacy from the main house can be had. The third room has its own bathroom and deck. All the rooms are $85, but there is a special for the suite if both rooms are taken together ($100/night). Breakfast is included; the three mornings we were there, the breakfasts ranged from eggs and potatoes to quiches to french toast and sausage. All the eggs were farm-fresh, which leads to a real treat about this place. Upon arrival, Mike and Jesse, the owners, greet you and invite you to get settled. Close to evening, they offer a drink as you start to unwind and let go of the urban life for a few days.

On the property reside 4 goats, 3 burros, 3 cats, a dog, about 12 hens, and one busy undersized (frustrated? Inadequate to please?) rooster. For me, being among the animals was one of the more restful components of the facility. We can get so caught up in our own stuff, and to walk among these animals and have close contact with them brings me true delight. Each morning, I made a point of being out by the animals as the rooster started his chores of waking everyone up in the barn. First the chickens would emerge, then the goats and burros. Slowly, they would start cackling, braying and bleating for their breakfast. When Mike or Jesse would emerge, the volume would pick up, especially from the two odd-looking pea hens (that lay green eggs!). Joining the party would be Dixie, the house dog, and Carver, the playful cat. As the goats and burros were fed, Joe, one of the burros, would get all the other animal in their places so that only one of the goats was on his side of the feeding contraption. Spending time with these animals, I quickly learned about the various personalities of them - who liked to be pet, who demanded attention, who wanted none, etc. If you like animals, this is wonderful!

What's to do nearby?

Clinton does not have a whole lot - a few restaurants and shops, but none that we visited. Delavan (10 miles away) has more shops, mostly antiques, but a great kitchen shop as well. Also in Delavan are Allyn Mansion Inn (another gay-owned B&mpd;B, more on this later), and Latimer House (a restaurant and gift shop), both mid-to late-18^th century Victorian homes nicely restored. Allyn Mansion Inn has tours (it's won awards for restoration). We have also stayed there, but not recently enough to write about. It is more costly, but also much grander than Carver's Rock. In or near Delavan are two lakes, and a city park with a beach.

Another 6 miles away is Elkhorn, with more shops and restaurants, as well as the county fairgrounds, which host a monthly antique flea market from May through September. Also in Elkhorn is Watson's Wild West Museum, not a large museum but worth the $3.75 to hear the tales of owner Doug Watson. For a buck, you can have a real Sasparilla soda, and have it slid down the bar to you. On the outskirts of both of these towns are strip malls of stores and restaurants you can find anywhere if that's your preference. Our only venture was to Culver's for an overdose of Custard and butter burgers. We bicycled the 35 mile round trip there (through Delavan) to alleviate the guilt of this meal. Not much further away are Williams Bay, Lake Geneva, and the southern unit of Kettle Moraine for those that want to pack the day.

Biking and walks are right out the door. A two-mile network of trails is right across the street. The farm roads are quiet and generally not heavily traveled. Other towns nearby are Janesville and Beloit. Further afield, but within an hour, are Whitewater, Cambridge (more about Cambridge in another write-up), and Madison.

As for meals, if you are looking for the best of Chicago in the best of Wisconsin, you've got the wrong mindset. I have found that the key to enjoying getaways is to enjoy things for what they are, and not as a comparison to some unfair expectations. Take Fish Fry, for example. If you are in Wisconsin on a Friday, Fish Fry is the order of the day. We went to Colonial Club (4 miles away in Darien) where, for $7.95, we got all the broiled or fried fish, cole slaw, potato pancakes, fries, and corgies you could eat. Simple Wisconsin fish fry at its best. Leave your desire for poached fish with delicate sauces and spices at home, and don't forget your cholesterol medication. Saturday dinner was at Latimer House, somewhat pricey ($40/person), but very good steaks. Latimer House also has a Friday fish fry ($8.95), probably better quality than Colonial, but also fancier. Fish fry is not meant to be fancy.

Sunday dinner was at Sweet Aromas in Delavan (make reservations!). Wonderful Italian food, with portions that will provide meals for the next three days. Dinners come with soup, salad, and terrific bread. The owners (another gay couple - we are everywhere!) are planning to open up a second restaurant in Chicago near North Ave/Damen. We both had spaghetti with meat sauce, and fully enjoyed ourselves.

Returning to Carver's Rock after being out all day or just a few hours was comforting. To either sit among the animals, or in the living room reading or recapping the day with old and new friends was the perfect way to be completely away from the routine busy life.

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